Never Again

"Work Will Set You Free"  The Ironic Words on the Dachau Concentration Camp Gate

Dachau, Bergen-Belsen, and Auschwitz are words that send chills of horror for anyone of David's and my generation, but evidently that's not true for everyone.

Gourmet Dining on a McDonald's Budget

If you become a Tightwad Traveler, renting apartments wherever you vacation,  I guarantee you will enjoy food fit for a gourmet!

Come Visit Our Rothenburg Studio

Go to Rothenburg ob der Tauber, the best preserved medieval walled town in Germany just 410 kilometers north of Fussen, Bavaria, and find the main square.  Just half a block away, on the street you see above, is our studio.  Look for the climbing roses by our windows...

I'm sitting at the table by the single window.

...and look for our red front door. 

Luging in Bavaria!

Call Germany fickle, if you like, but it's been doing its best to woo me with soaring mountains tickling a blue sky, emerald green valleys with millions of Christmas trees suitable for the White House, and charming castles that were created by a madman or a poet, depending on whom you ask.

Bavaria has succeeded.  I am smitten.

Castles of an Insane King?

Hohenschwangau Castle It's fairly easy to walk to this castle.

This romantic king loved the legend of the star-crossed lovers, "Tristan and Isolde," adored the opera and supported the composer Wagner, and tucked fairy tale castles that were more whimsy than substance into clefts in the Alps.  But the people of Bavaria accused King Ludwig II of insanity, and, according to our guide, "He went for a walk with the psychiatrist sent to evaluate him and both men were found dead in the lake of mysterious circumstances later that day.  The next week, his castles were opened to the public as museums."

Germany and I Are Getting Along!

I thought Germany had taken an instant dislike to me, but I'm beginning to realize first impressions are often misleading.  With the delicious food David and I have discovered (I'll tell you later about these crescent pastries covered in slivered almonds.), the kind people we've met, and the striking scenery we've enjoyed, Germany is getting friendlier on an hourly basis!

Sleeping in the Palace at Versailles--Really!

We talked to our host this morning who told us the wall panels truly are from a palace in Versailles.  Not The Palace, but another one--in Versailles. He paid a small fortune for these beautiful walls, and he still has a door panel that he's willing to sell.  Let him know if you're interested!

Sleeping in the Palace at Versailles!

Forggensee Lake

David and I left the Black Forest behind and came to Bavaria in the southeastern corner of Germany, home of sparkling lakes guarded by soaring Alps.  But the very best part of being in Fussen is that we get to sleep in a palace.

If You Like Pine, You'll Love the Kuckucknest

This old building houses two businesses and three tourist rooms plus lounge.

The nicest people in the Black Forest (Schwarzwald) operate the guesthouse and cuckoo clock business called the Kuckucknest in Triberg, Germany.  But if you rent a room here, you've got to love pine.  It's everywhere.

Germany Hates Me

If it's true that every country has a personality just as every person does, then I'd label Germany quarrelsome. Or maybe the country just took an instant dislike to me. We certainly are not getting along. But I swear it's not my fault. You be the judge.

Last Night in Colmar

The view of "our restaurant" from our apartment window.

It's our last night in Colmar so we returned to the place we started--the restaurant up the street where we made the phone call to our apartment hostess last Saturday.

Colmar to Freiburg im Breisgau

This is for all the people who cannot find information about public transportation from Colmar to Freiburg, Germany, on the Internet.

Sick in France? No Problem!

We survived the train strike, but David was felled by the common cold.  He got sick almost as soon as we set foot in Colmar; luckily, the French pharmacy has the answers to all physical ailments.

Colmar's Claims to Fame

"Give me your tired, your poor,
Your huddled masses yearning to breathe free,
The wretched refuse of your teeming shore,
Send these, the homeless, tempest-tossed to me,
I lift my lamp beside the golden door!"
                      - Emma Lazarus

What has become the symbol of freedom in America, the Statue of Liberty, was built by a Frenchman named Bartholdi who grew up in this house, now a museum, in Colmar. 

Farmers' Market Day

The market in Colmar has been in existence since 1863, with part of it permanently housed in a building called Les Halles, while the rest is open air.  It was sited here, near the canals, so farmers could deliver their produce using  flat-bottomed boats.

The Best Kind of Neighbor

That's our building with the pale green paint and white shutters, and here's the Karcher Winery!

David has been sick with a cold and the trains are still on strike, so we've been sticking close to home.  But, oh, how sweet home is when there's a winery right across the street!

La Petite Venise

Italy is not the only town with canals.  Colmar has its share of waterways where you can ride in a boat, stroll along the banks, or dine in a riverside cafe.

Cheap (Delicious) Eats in France

One of the strategies that keeps travel costs low for the Tightwad Traveler is relying on grocery stores and markets for food shopping.  Gourmets can still enjoy the finest treats a region has to offer, but they will find them in carry-out shops, delis, specialty stores, and even the supermarket.

Being waited on while sitting at a table enjoying the passing scene does have merit, and David and I do indulge in that occasionally, but, for the most part, we enjoy exploring markets and discovering food on our own.  We'd rather try four new deli dinner entrees for the same price as one restaurant meal.

Come on in to our Colmar Apartment!

Just a block from the quaint shopping/restaurant area is our apartment.  Open the door to the entry and climb one flight of stairs to our flat.

 The living/dining room and kitchen are one space with three high casement double windows flooding the room with light and fresh air.  (You can see in the mirror that  I'm busy taking photos while David is still exploring.)

STRIKE! the conclusion

Because of the train strike, a lot of unhappy people were stranded at the station staring up at the departure/arrival screens that never changed.

 Every seat in the lounge was taken and most of the floor space occupied.  David and I finally crowded on to a wooden seat that encircled one of the structural poles, but we were jostled by someone trying to squeeze in every few seconds.  We propped our feet against our suitcases to keep our balance on the wooden circle and discussed our options.

STRIKE!

A rare sight -- an empty train platform in Paris.

Philippe came to collect the apartment keys, to say goodbye, and to hail us a taxi, but, instead of the smile we expected, he looked unhappy.   There is a greve, a train strike, he said, and we may not be going anywhere today.  His son had made it from Marseille, but the news reporter said no trains would be heading east toward Colmar today.  If he hadn't had another reservation for the apartment, he would insist we stay another night.

Musee du Louvre Musings

Pyramids and triangles are a repeated theme in every substance imaginable.  Not only does the pyramid throw golden replicas of itself on other buildings in the museum, but water features, green swaths, and even the tourists seem to align themselves in this geometric forms.

Depending on which source you consult,  it can take weeks, months or years to see everything in the Louvre, so why not concentrate on just a few areas?  Of course you'll want to see the Venus de Milo and the Mona Lisa, but you may enjoy other works that don't require fighting crowds for a view.  You'll see what I mean in the next photo. 

Easy Tickets for the Musee du Louvre

The inverted pyramid below the Louvre splashes rainbows all over the floor!

The best way to get your ticket to this world-famous museum is to buy the Paris Museum Pass which entitles you to entry at more than sixty-some places.  But that costs €42 for a two-day pass, and, if you're planning to see only one museum as David and I were, then that is not financially advantageous.

Sainte Chapelle and the Batobus

The lower chapel of Sainte Chapelle is lovely and old, having been built in 1248, but David and I couldn't help but wonder why we'd waited twenty minutes in line to see this place that didn't seem particularly special.  Why was it ranked almost as high on tourist lists as Notre Dame?

Then we climbed the spiral staircase.  When we got to the top, we understood.

Guess Who's French

                                                             Is this woman French? 

                                                        Or how about these two?

Best Bargain in Paris

I bought this hot-from-the-oven baguette for  €.79 or about $1.07.  There cannot be a more delicious bargain in the world!

Meandering in Paris

The last time we were in Paris a few years ago, David and I jammed our days with museums, seeing all the famous ones and many no one has ever heard of, and, while we enjoyed our ten days, we needed a week of bed rest afterward.  So this time we decided to take Paris a little more slowly, savoring a bit each day instead of gulping huge chunks all at once. Not quite as relaxed as this man who set up his bed on the sidewalk, but almost.

Our Place in Paris

After one of the world's most beautiful weddings, when David and I were thrilled to welcome Melissa into our family, we flew to rain-drenched Paris.  Philippe met us at the front door and welcomed us to this city we love.  David and I were too tired to do much but sit on the couch last night, but the pain au chocolate (chocolate croissants), room to breathe (American Airlines seems to have reached a new low in stuffing people into its planes), and comfortable seating made us happy.

Living room corner with fireplace.

You will be astonished when you hear the price of our centrally located, one-bedroom apartment.

France and Germany on $54 a Day (so far)

The front door leading to our Paris apartment.  This is our second visit so it'll feel almost like home.

I think the world would be a far better place if it didn't have numbers, but David does not share my philosophy.  He actually enjoys creating spreadsheets, relishes the opportunity to force figures into compliant columns, and basks in the glow of bank statements that balance to the penny.

In some ways his penchant for particulars is helpful because he is the one who keeps us on track, financially speaking, when we travel.  While I keep a daily  guesstimate in mind that's usually in the ballpark, David tracks the exact euro amounts in black and white.

That's how I know that, so far, we are spending only $54 a day per person for our trip to France and Germany.

But I'll bet you don't believe me.   I didn't either when David first gave me the figures. 

Not when a Women Traveling Together tour of Amsterdam, Belgium and Paris costs $491 a day.  When the man who shares much of my travel philosophy, Rick Steves, charges $323 per day for a tour of Eastern France, the area we'll be seeing. When even Untours, the non-tour company that arranges an apartment and transportation but leaves you to your own devices, charges $284 a day for a week's apartment rental in France and in Germany.