A Month in Mexico - Enfermo!

If the number of bathroom visits exceeds the number of hours in a day; if your stomach is distended so the shorts, which were too loose yesterday, cannot be buttoned; if it takes five minutes of sitting on the bed to work up the energy to look for your sandals and another five minutes to gather the stamina to slip into them; and if you feel ravenous but the thought of eating makes you nauseous -- then you probably have amoebic dysentery.

The day before we were to leave for San Miguel de Allende, I decided, after brunch with friends, to lie down for the afternoon.  I didn't feel quite right and thought a mild intestinal problem would be cured by a long siesta. 

That's what I told myself anyway. We had non-refundable bus tickets and a non-refundable accommodation reservation for the next day in San Miguel de Allende, so I needed to buck up and get better. Fast.

A Month in Mexico - Expatriate Refuge

Imagine a 25-mile wide lake dominating the landscape like an inland sea with quaint Mexican villages clustering on its shores and velvety green mountains circling it all in an embrace.  Add an almost-perfect climate, where air conditioning and heating are unnecessary, and a low cost of living, and you can see why the Lake Chapala area is one of the most popular retirement destinations
in the world.

                 One of the LCS Pools

Still, as welcoming as the geography, climate and people are, expatriates crave the amenities they left behind.  The Lake Chapala Society, known locally as LCS, is here to answer that need.

A Month in Mexico - Real Estate and Rentals

Would you like a two-bedroom, one and a half bath furnished apartment that includes electricity and maid service just three blocks from a lake for $300 US?  Then Ajijic or Chapala, Mexico, might be the place for you.

Here are some ads I noticed last week on the Lake Chapala Society (More about this organization above.) bulletin board.

There's a one bedroom casita with a fireplace, screened porch, garden and gardener that's within walking distance to shopping for $450 US.

Or how about a furnished one-bedroom casita with two terraces, DSL Internet, electric, incredible views, and a pool just one block from the plaza for $500 US?

If you simply want to try a short-term rental before making a commitment, you can lease-- until October--this upper Ajijic house with two bedrooms, two baths, a patio and garden, maid, phone, and Internet service for $500 US.

A Month in Mexico - Hummer War Continues

David and I were out for dinner with friends last night and forgot to refill the hummingbird feeder until this morning

.        The Green Guard tries to fend off all comers.

     Guess he can't see the hummer on the other side of the feeder.

                        Success at last!  

                      Mine.  All mine!

        The Green Guard is eventually overwhelmed by sheer numbers....

A Month in Mexico - What $100 Buys in San Miguel de Allende

Created in town, these San Miguel sandals are designed to cushion your walk over cobblestone streets and sidewalks.


The article below  appeared in Thursday's Budget Travel e-mail newsletter.

What $100 Buys in...San Miguel de Allende
Mexico's colonial time capsule abounds with surprisingly cosmopolitan keepsakes.

Caroline Patience
July/August 2010 issue
Tuesday, June 22, 2010; 

$34 Bracelet
There's no shortage of beaded jewelry in San Miguel's many souvenir shops, but for something more unique, seek out Olga Prieto's understated, matte-brass bangles, stocked in a well-curated boutique just off the Jardín Allende. Once Ambient Store, Cuna de Allende 11-12,onceambientstore.com.

$1 Place mat
Of the city's four major markets, the Mercado de Artesanías is the hub for authentic, affordable gifts like hand-cut tin ornaments, artisanal vanilla extract, and these bright, woven-palm place mats. Mercado de Artesanías, between Calle Colegio and Calle Loreto.

$32 Coasters (set of six)
Mexico City transplant Jaime Goded was among the first modern artists to set up shop here 25 years ago. Now he shows off his latest work—vibrant wooden coasters, jigsaw puzzles, and cabinets—at his studio in a converted textile factory. Galería Goded, Calzada de la Aurora, 011-52/415-154-4075.

$5 Bag
Those who happen upon the Zona Centro Mexican Oil Cloth Store face a truly difficult decision: Snap up one of the dozens of ready-made totes, or browse the 100 fabric options and have a custom tablecloth, bag, or luggage tag stitched up within two days. Mexican Oil Cloth Store, Calle Loreto 17, 011-52/415-152-6964.

$2 Pot holder
This handmade cotton hot pad is the perfect whimsical, yet practical, partner for a traditional Guadalajaran earthenware pot. Both are sold in the 65-year-old Artes de México, San Miguel's oldest shop. Artes de México, Calzada de la Aurora 47, 011-52/415-152-0764.

$24 Cookbook
Each of this volume's 190 homegrown recipes (such as caldito San Miguel, a spicy chicken-and-chipotle soup) are from an area chef, a resident, or a repeat visitor—many of whom come here for cooking classes. Sweet bonus: All proceeds go to fund Feed the Hungry's local antipoverty efforts. feedthehungrysma.org.

Click here to see the photos.

A Month in Mexico - Sounds of San Miguel de Allende

• the trickle of water fountains
• the panpipe melody of the knife sharpener whistle
• church bells
• a band practicing every afternoon - from the sound of it, they need to practice 24 hours a day
• barking dogs
• church bells
• boy running ahead of the garbage truck clanging a triangle to let everyone know it's trash time
• roosters crowing
• water truck man shouting "Agua"
• church bells
• vegetable trucks spouting a recorded litany of produce for sale
• fireworks and rockets
• church bells
• loudspeaker voice shouting uno, dos, tres, cuatro, cinco, seis, siete, ocho as children gather for school
• church bells

  But noise does not disturb this caballero's nonchalance.

A Month in Mexico - Scenes from San Miguel de Allende Market

Whether you want to buy your daughter a fancy dress, pick up a few herbs, or grab a bite for lunch--it's all here at the San Miguel de Allende weekly market.

                        Dresses on Display

                Herbs for Healing or Seasoning

                    Don't these look tempting?

                     Take-Out Pork Rinds

A Month in Mexico - Guanajuato and Dolores Hidalgo

           Guanajuato from the El Pipila Viewpoint
In the 18th century, the gods used a shoehorn to nestle Guanajuato (gwah-nah-WAH-toh) between mountains containing more silver than any place else in the world.  And today, these verdant hills, flower-bedecked streets, underground roads, leafy plazas, world-class museums, and prestigious university create a feast for the eyes and nourishment for the intellect. This UNESCO World Heritage city, where 60% of the slender streets are pedestrian only, invites you to amble slowly to savor the delights it offers.

Antonio, our guide for the day, led David and me to the first treat, the Diego Rivera Museum.  Rivera, one of Mexico's most famous muralists and artist Frida Kahlo's lover, lived in a five-story house on Calle Pocitos for the first nine years of his life.  

                Rivera's Dining Room
The first floor of his home has been refurbished with antiques typical of the period.  The remaining floors contain approximately one hundred of Rivera's paintings, sketches and watercolors. 

A Month in Mexico - San Miguel de Allende Centro

  Allende Museum Is Across the Street from the Jardin Bandstand
David and I stood today in the bedroom where Ignacio Allende, a leader in Mexico's fight for independence from Spain, slept when he was a boy. Judging from the rest of the two-story mansion, Allende had a privileged background, but he eventually sacrificed everything, even his life, for freedom.

As we explored this beautiful town today, we could understand Allende's motivation.  Of course there have been many changes in the past 200 years, but the artistry we saw at every turn must have been evident even then.

            Historic Hotel - Courtyard Restaurant

Centuries-old churches dignify the cityscape, tolling their bells throughout the day so the Mexicans, few of whom have clocks or watches, know when it is time for work or prayer.  Frightening faces are carved into the ancient, fifty-foot high doors to scare away evil spirits.  

Bellas Artes, housed in a former hacienda, serves as the cultural center for the community offering classes, concerts, and art exhibits.  Even walking the grounds is a treat because the central garden and fountain is a calm oasis in this bustling city.

           Reading on the Portico of the Biblioteca

The Biblioteca Publica, a few blocks away from Bellas Artes, is maintained by the expatriate community and offers the largest collection of English books in Mexico.  Not only the library graces this former hacienda, as there are also rooms for computer classes, an auditorium for lectures and films, a gift shop, and a delightful atrium snack shop. The Biblioteca serves two necessary functions in San Miguel:  it serves as a resource for the expat community and also offers materials and tutoring to the Mexican children. 

              Atrium Restaurant

The heart of a city, though, lies in its people, and San Miguel de Allende is blessed with creative people.  At every turn, whether it is a humble shop or a plant lovingly tended to produce its best, the artistry is apparent.

      Even Sandwiches Are Beautifully Decorated in San Miguel! 

We walked slowly today, taking photos every few steps.  This enchanting place invites you to linger, and we were happy to oblige.

"the little lame balloon man whistles far and wee,,,"   - e.e. cummings

Practicalities - 

The Ignacio Allende Museum is on the jardin, just across from the Parroquia.  The first floor contains historical information while the second level is furnished as it might have been in Allende's time.  Admission is 37 pesos.

A Month in Mexico - We (almost) Become Movie Stars!

I've been waiting all my life to be discovered.  A crew for a TV drama in Wilmington, NC, rolled its equipment away five minutes after I walked down a scenic alley.  I've stood around when cameras rolled in New York, only to be asked to please get out of the way.  I was the only one who volunteered when a scouting crew showed up at the Lake Chapala Society one day many years ago.  They took my photo and phone number but never called.  But today, this morning around 10:00, I had my chance.